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When one talks about Catorce probably one of the most important things to understand is that we are talking of a region quite clearly defined and in which one can distinguish two main different areas: the Catorce's lowlands and the sierra of Catorce. The lowlands are at about 1,800 m. high and the sierra has peaks above 3,000 m. Catorce is also a county (municipio) and its seat is in the main centre, called Real de Catorce, that very well-known former mining centre now a "ghost town". It has an altitude of 2,750 m. and it is perched on a step mountain side, with an incredible view of the lowlands and beautiful sunsets. This ghost town, however, has never been completely empty and today is experiencing a noticeable boom. A slow and harmonious growth avoiding rapid and uncontrolled growth seen elsewhere.
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![]() © 2005, Valerio Monti |
Because of this you will come and find a nice comfortable accommodation, good food, people to speak with, a hot shower and still experience the feeling of being in a ghost town, especially in low season (Christmas, Easter and summer week-ends) and that is because the town once hosted at least 15,000 people and now there are scarcely 1000 permanent residents.
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![]() © 2005, Valerio Monti |
The land, nevertheless is very rough, dry and the vegetation very sparse. There are beautiful woods, but you have to be in good shape as the nature walk will lead you across hills and valleys at an average of 2,900 m. altitude where the air is extremely thin. The woods are mainly oaks (short and sturdy) and some cypress. To reach the first wooded heights you walk toward the mountain above the Ogarrio tunnel for about 4 to 5 hours. Camping is certainly allowed, safe and free. Have blankets handy. The lowlands are what you see when arriving via the cobble-stoned access road or when going west toward the estación Catorce (Catorce's train station). It's here that the sacred land of Wirikuta provides the Huichol people their sacred peyote cactus. From the road to the Real de Catorce cemetery that an impressive plain falls before you.
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![]() © 2005, Jesús Cabral |
The people here are honest, friendly in their own way and just as spicy as most Mexicans. They are norteños "northerners" frankness is their main character trait . There are a good number of people living here whose origins are other towns or states and even a small community of people from different countries live here (Argentinian, Italian, Swiss, Germans, Spanish, and some from the US). Most people live from commerce and services to tourism, arts and crafts and some agriculture. Local goats provide excellent milk and cheese. The town hosts a few artists of outstanding quality, especially at jewellery, carving, sculpture and painting. Some of the artists sell at local shops in town, others out of town while some sell in the streets of town. In this latter case you should not assume that something sold by a street vendor must be of lower quality than what is displayed on shops. Fine silver, true amber and precious stones are to be found in shops and in the street.
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![]() © 2005, Valerio Monti |
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